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In Japan, every department store has a basement.Not parking.Food.Glass cases of wagyu beef.Strawberries arranged like jewelry.Twelve kinds of pickles.Sushi from a real cheffor less than a sandwich back home.Then 8 PM happens.The staff start putting yellow stickerson everything that won’t survive the night.30 percent off.Then 50.Then sometimes 70.A 5,000-yen bento becomes 1,500.A whole roast chicken becomes pocket change.The savvy locals don’t talk about this.They just show up at 7 45,quietly,and walk out with dinner for twofor the price of a coffee.The best meal of your tripmight cost the least.
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